|The approach to Saturnia|
But reading about Saturnia is sort of like reading about an orgasm – until you experience it in person, you’ll never really know what you’re missing.
|The thermal river at Saturnia. |
Doesn't that water look swift?
|Paolo finds his shorts|
Once we clung and crawled our way out of the river we moved down to the waterfalls, a much less harrowing way to have a warm soak. Known as the Cascate del Mulino, each mini-waterfall has carved out a marble bathtub underneath it, so one need only find an available tub in which to soak away all those fearful memories of floundering in the whitewater river. Or instead, let a crashing waterfall palpitate neck and shoulders, while those suckers at the spa upstream pay €50 and up for the same service, minus the great scenery and no doubt administered by a mustachioed, grim-faced, former Soviet-bloc matron.
Paolo and I left Saturnia vowing to return as soon as possible. I have admit, that was more than a year and a baby ago. Now when we return, we’ll be a threesome. We’ll have to skip the rushing river and even the waterfalls, as Naomi is still a bit small for either. And I suppose I’ll have to put her in a pair of rubber swim trunks, lest I risk the dirty looks of other bathers who don’t want to soak in baby pee. But I wonder if any of them have ever considered that they’re soaking in bourgeois pee, anyway.
|Cascate del Mulino at Saturnia, AKA, the cheap seats|
Kidding aside, the private terme of Saturnia http://www.termedisaturnia.it/en/
is quite lovely, and offers a much more refined way to take a dip. And I’m sure no guests ever really pee in the water. Nope, never.
There are many reasons to love Susan Morgan’s blog, Half Year Italian, but my #1 reason is this sentence: "The relationship between Tuscany and Umbria can best be summed up by saying that the Umbrians think the Tuscans are snots, and the Tuscans think the Umbrians still go around in animal skins." Read more at: http://halfyearitalian.wordpress.com/2011/09/01/local-pride-part-i/